Some Fun Fixes for your horn and a look at my "stuff" ..............................................................................................................................................................................
This is the current batch of caps, stems, etc. I can swap out and try on my horn. Depending on sound, range, acoustics, I can get the sound and feel I want for any date. ...................................................................................................................................... Tip of the Month!
Clearer sound, more centered, more articulate, Consistently open though all ranges. More presence, more projection!
All of this can be yours for the cost of one 9 ounce valve spring. Here’s the deal:
1. Cut a length of spring equal to the circumference of your first valve male slide. 2. Cut another length of spring equal to the circumference of your second valve male spring. 3. Cut another … of your third valve male slide.
Place the loop around the bottom first valve slide. Around the top second valve slide and the top 3rd valve slide.
Now
you have prevented the slides from closing all the way with the
thickness of a valve spring. The tension of the coil holds it in place,
and you’re good to go.
Go ahead and push the slides right up against the coil securely, if you have a trigger – use normally.
The positive results will leap out the first time you play. Notice how the top 3 or 4 notes of range are now easier and clearer.
In the 1960's I began fooling around with my horn's configuration. I have over 100 ways to improve your present horn. These are valuable helps and all appear in my "Little Red Book"
Here are some teasers to get you started!
Play a middle G then ascend one octave and back down at MF. Now rotate
your mouthpiece about 10 degrees and do the same. Continue all the way
around and make notes of what feels and plays best.
You will
find 2 spots - opposite each other. One will play a little darker and
feel smooth on your top lip, the other will play a little clearer and
feel a little sharper on your top lip. Pick one and stay there. Put the
mouthpiece in the same way every time.
Here's another:
Tighten
all your top and bottom caps finger tight. Try it . Now loosen them to
the point where they are just at the start of holding securely. Try.
Which do you prefer? Leave them like this every time you play.
Here's another:
Swap
your first and third valve cap bottom. Is it more projecting now but
stiffer resistance? Or is it more open and flexible with a little less
projection? Choose one and leave it.
Here's more:
Is your
open C a different response than a valved note? Maybe stuffier? Then
loosen your spit valve nut 1/4 turn. Does the C open up, does the sound
get brighter? Experiment until the tension is the way you want it and
leave it there.
Now if you ever had Dave Monette build you a
horn and then you went back for an adjustment. This is the stuff he was
doing in the back room, or when he turned his back to you.
Different weight valve caps, tension here and there, reversing 2nd slides. All these things and more:
Here's
one for the timbre of the horn - stuffy sound - apply gentle pressure
upwards on the finger hook enough to actually raise it a miniscule
amount. To bright - then do the opposite.
Keep your horn clean and the slides greased and firm. The sound is clearer.
I
knew one guy that had a bright horn so he poured milk through it every
week - it warmed up the sound but stunk to high heavens- UGH! This is
for real - his name was Stewart and he played a Besson Cornet.